29 Jun,2021 | Advice, Reptiles
| From |
Length |
Lifespan |
Groups |
| Western and Central Africa |
5 feet (on average) |
20 to 25 years |
Best kept solitary |
Royal Pythons, referred to as Ball Pythons outside of the UK, are an excellent starter species for someone who is new to keeping reptiles.
Their needs are very basic, they do not grow to a particularly large size and they are usually very placid (although it is important to remember that any animal will defend itself if provoked). This makes them ideal for beginners.
Have you got everything prepared?
- Vivarium
- Heat and Light Source
- Bulb Holder and Guard
- Food and Water Bowls
- Hide
- Thermometer, Thermostat and Hygrometer
- Spray Bottle/Humidifier
- Feeding Tongs
- Snake Hook (optional)
- Food (make sure you have freezer space!)
- Vivarium Lock
- Substrate
Diet
Royal Pythons are obligate carnivores which means they will only eat meat. The size of this type of snake means they can be fed a variety of mice and small rats. Rats and mice are bought frozen, and they should be completely thawed out before feeding to the snake or you could risk dangerously lowering their body temperature. The size of the prey offered should correspond to the size of the prey itself – the prey should never be bigger than the widest part of the snake’s body.
There are two methods in which food can be presented to a snake. These are strike feeding and bowl feeding.
Strike feeding involves dangling the animal in front of the snake using feeding tongs and waiting for the snake to strike the prey and coil around it. Never offer food by holding it in your fingers! This can cause the snake to accidentally strike your fingers when aiming for the prey, or it could simply begin to associate your hands with food, which would make handling dangerous.
Bowl feeding involves laying the prey on a shallow bowl or rock and allowing the snake to find the food for itself. This may not be as effective, as in the wild the snake would expect to chase its prey, and may not be as likely to take an interest if it already appears dead (i.e. not moving).
Whichever method you choose, never ever use live animals.
These snakes can go a few weeks without eating, but if you are struggling to get your Royal Python to feed, try cutting the prey so they will smell the blood more strongly.
Enclosure
Royal Pythons are a terrestrial species, meaning they spend most of their time on the ground. They will, however, climb low branches you may choose to include in your vivarium. Due to their size, an enclosure for an adult should be at least 3ft wide, 2ft deep, and 1.5ft high. The vivarium should allow for a fair amount of substrate, which the python will enjoy burrowing in. It is also vital to check the security of the vivarium as snakes are excellent escape artists. Make sure the vivarium is securely locked and be aware of any damaged areas through which the snake could escape. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily, with a full clean out once a month.
Heating and Lighting
Royal Pythons require a basking spot temperature of around 35°C with an ambient temperature of around 30°C. The cooler side of the vivarium should be around 25°C. At night, you should make sure that the temperature does not drop below 22°C. UV lighting is not essential for royal pythons, although there can be benefits such as brighter colouration if a low level “natural light” is used. This can come from their heat bulb. Their overall photo period should be twelve hours of light and twelve hours of darkness per day.
A hiding area should be included at the cooler end of the vivarium. Hiding areas are important as they allow the snake a place to retreat into a place where they feel secure. This is a natural behaviour that they instinctually follow even in captivity, because in the wild this would help them to avoid being eaten.
Substrate
Royal Pythons require a substrate which they can burrow in, and is also good at retaining moisture. Coco fibre is a suitable type to use, and mixing it with bark chips can help to maintain humidity levels. This will also help to prevent respiratory issues caused by finer dust particles. The substrate should be 2 – 3 inches deep.
Water and Humidity
The humidity levels in a royal python’s vivarium should usually be around 60%, but should never drop below 50%. The humidity level can be topped up by spraying with a water bottle or humidifier. You should aim to be misting the vivarium twice daily, which can be done manually or through a fogger system. A water source should always be available, in a bowl large enough for the snake to bathe in. This should be replenished regularly to maintain hygiene.
Behaviours to watch out for
- As they get ready to shed their skin, the snake’s eyes will briefly go cloudy. They will return to normal during or after the shed.
- Snakes can regurgitate their food if they feel stressed or threatened. It is best not to handle a snake for at least two days after feeding.
- They may become a bit defensive when preparing to shed, so it may be best to avoid handling during this period.
- Snakes will become much more aggressive when they sense food, so it is best to keep your distance when there is food nearby!
- Snakes should shed their skin all in one go. Patchy skin is a sign of a bad shed. To combat this, make sure the humidity is optimal and provide a rough surface such as a rock or branch to help them shed.
If this handy guide has piqued your interest in purchasing a Royal Python, everything you may need can be found in-store or on our website. If you have any questions feel free to give us a call on 01482 585315 or drop us an email to enquiry@peejaypets.co.uk.
29 Jun,2021 | Advice, Reptiles
| From |
Length |
Lifespan |
Groups |
| Eastern United States |
5 feet (on average) |
10 to 15 years |
Best kept solitary |
Corn snakes are an excellent species for people considering snake-keeping as a hobby. Not only are they simple to care for, but they come in a wide range of visually stunning morphs.
In general, corn snakes are a fairly docile species – which makes them very easy to handle and rarely aggressive. But you still need to remember to treat them with care, as any animal will seek to defend itself if provoked.
Have you got everything prepared?
- Vivarium
- Light and Heat Source
- Bulb Fitting and Guard
- Thermostat and Thermometer
- Water and Food Bowls
- Hide
- Substrate
- Vivarium Lock
- Feeding Tongs
- Snake Hook (optional)
- Vivarium Lock
- Food (ensure you have freezer space!)
- Spray Bottle/Humidifier (not essential but can help with shedding)
Diet
Corn snakes are obligate carnivores, which means they only feed on meat.
The most common food used for snakes are mice. Mice are bought frozen so need to be thawed out completely before being fed to your snake, otherwise it can significantly reduce their body temperature which is dangerous. What size of mouse you feed should be determined by the size of your snake itself – it should be no larger than the widest part of your snake’s body.
There are two methods of feeding that snake owners should be aware of: strike feeding or bowl feeding.
Strike feeding involves dangling the mouse from some feeding tongs in front of the snake and waiting for them to strike the prey and coil around it. Never offer food by holding it in your fingers! This can cause the snake to accidentally bite you when striking the prey, or it could cause the snake to simply associate your hands with feeding, which can make handling more dangerous.
Bowl feeding involves laying the mouse on a shallow bowl or rock, and then allowing the snake to find it. The snake may not respond to this method however, as in the wild they would be more attracted to moving prey, not one that already appears to be dead.
Whichever method you choose, never ever use live animals.
It is not uncommon for a corn snake to go a few weeks without eating. However, if you are struggling to get your snake to eat, you may find it easier to cut the prey, causing the scent of blood to be more potent to the snake.
Enclosure
An enclosure that is 3.5ft wide, 2 feet deep, and 2 feet high will provide enough space for a fully grown adult snake, although this should be treated as a minimum size. Whilst corn snakes are mostly terrestrial, they will climb on low branches which you may like to include in your vivarium. The enclosure should be suitable for deeper substrates as corn snakes like to burrow. It is also vital to check the security of the vivarium as snakes are known for being escape artists; ensure that there is no damage anywhere and that the doors shut fully. It is recommended to buy a lock for the enclosure.
Heating and Lighting
A heat bulb will be required to keep the snake’s vivarium at an optimum temperature. The temperature should be maintained at around 20-24°C at the cooler end of the vivarium and 28-30°C in their basking area. At night time, the temperature should never drop below 20°C. It is recommended to buy a bulb guard as well to protect the snake should it choose to coil around the bulb. Corn snakes do not actually require UV lighting, but should have some form of low-level light – this can come from their heat bulb. Using low-level lighting can help to bring out brighter colours on the snake.
If you choose to use a heat bulb as the only light source in the vivarium, a basking or daylight bulb should be used alongside a dimmer thermostat.
If using another light source, ceramic heat elements are the most reliable way to heat the vivarium – they are much more durable and therefore last longer. This should be used alongside either a pulse thermostat or an on/off thermostat.
Heat mats can also be used, but they are far less effective than the aforementioned bulbs.
A hiding area should be included at the cooler end of the vivarium. Hiding areas are important as they allow the snake a place to retreat into a place where they feel secure. This is a natural behaviour that they instinctually follow even in captivity, because in the wild this would help them to avoid being eaten.
Substrate
As with most reptiles, the topic of substrate is often divided. Beechwood chips or bark chips would be recommended as they allow the snake to burrow and present a lower chance of respiratory issues compared to finer particles like sand. Aspen bedding may also be used, but it is important to note that the dust from this substrate can cause irritation in the nose and mouth. The substrate is best at around 2-3 inches deep.
If your snake is ever suffering from mites, it is useful to use paper towels as substrate. This makes the mites easier to see and gives them fewer places to hide. It is also very easy to clean as it leaves no particles behind.
Water and Humidity
Corn snakes do not need high humidity levels. Keeping the tank between 40-50% humidity is suitable for them. This can be topped up using water in a spray bottle or a humidifier. A water bowl should be available at all times, this should be deep enough to bathe in and the water should be changed regularly to maintain hygiene.
Behaviours to watch out for
- Snakes are very good at escaping so maintaining the security of the enclosure is vital.
- Snakes will regurgitate their food if stressed, therefore it is best to avoid handling the snake or rearranging the enclosure for at least two days after feeding.
- When a snake is about to shed, its eyes will go cloudy. This is temporary and will clear up once the snake starts shedding.
- Snakes will become more aggressive if they sense food, so it is best to avoid getting too close when there is food nearby.
If this handy guide has piqued your interest in purchasing a corn snake, everything you may need can be found in-store or on our website. If you have any questions feel free to give us a call on 01482 585315 or drop us an email to enquiry@peejaypets.co.uk.
